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My love affair with sauvignon blanc continues unabated, and I had half a dozen very different examples of this versatile white in the past week.

I won't go through all six, but I will point out two extemes. The 2006 Drylands was pure Marlborough, N.Z., sauvignon blanc with its bracing acidity, aromas of gooseberry and passion fruit and a lively grapefruit acidity on the palate. Though a year old, often too long a period of time for some sauvignon blancs, the wine was youthful and vibrant. It made my saliva glands kick into overdrive and was pure pleasure, whether matched with food or by itself. I finished off the bottle long after dinner was over.

But the other extreme was found in two examples, the 2006 Four Bears from California's Dry Creek and the 2006 Columbia Crest from Washington state. Both were soft, with the citrus and herbaceaus qualities downplayed in favor of a rounder mouthfeel. But there was a big difference in price and approach.

The $14 Four Bears Sauvignon Blanc added a nice touch of vanilla from relatively neutral French oak that made it pleasant by itself. With food, the acid level came up, making it a pleasure on that level as well